Mui and I traveled to Thailand in early 1974, sweltering briefly in Bangkok before taking the train to a cooler Chiang Mai in the north. Chiang Mai seemed a small and somewhat dusty town - we walked from the center into the countryside and back in a morning. It had been almost two years since the Vietnam War pilots had gone, the empty bars and a few fashionable young women the last reminders of their presence. It has probably changed some since - travel sites show numerous large hotels and five golf courses. The bars are no doubt thriving again.