Our initial impression of Marrakech, staying the first night amidst the refurbished oasis/golf course (complete with camels) north of the center, was of a major center for european leisure; resort hotels, gated condo developments, a comfortable and artificial mix of the chic and the exotic. That impression lingered as we resettled into the medina, a place whose only purpose now is to cater to tourists. A few minutes of the snake charmers and tortured monkeys in the Jemaa el Fna was more than enough. We had planned on three days but the medina was small and provided only one accessible architectural delight, the Ben Youssef Madersa.