The southern most points in our journey were the oases of Zagora at the end of Draa Valley and then over the parched no-man's land north-east to the dunes of the Erg Chebbi. This route had an end-of-the-earth quality - there are no towns due south for over a thousand miles. The Erg Chebbi is a Saharan teaser, a small island of dunes hundred of miles from the great sea of sand that is the Sahara. But it is big enough to to get the idea. On arrival great anticipation gave way to great dismay as we surveyed the dunes gouged as far as could be seen by dune buggies and SUV's. Fortunately, the wind came up the next morning and by late afternoon the tracks had all but disappeared. North up the Ziz Valley then again crossing the High Atlas ( where we found a bit of snow in this very dry winter) we made our way to Fes.