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In 1923 a failed military attempt by Greece to reclaim ancient territory in Turkey from the crumbling Ottoman Empire resulted in an 'exchange' of minority Greeks and Turks. One traveling companion on this trip was Greek, and her grandfather was forced to move from Güzelyurt to Greece. Our stay was something of a roots project. The town is at the edge of the Cappadocia Region, and while removed from the center of the region's famous troglodyte dwellings, it has its own substantial quantity of examples as well as proximity to the hiking charms of the Ilhara Valley.